In praise of Oman taxi drivers

I do not want to cast aspersions on taxi drivers in the United Arab Emirates, who are mainly Indian or Pakistani expats, but when I wanted to visit the Khatt hot springs in Ras Al Khaimah, the driver misunderstood and took me to a drive-in McDonald’s, thinking I wanted a drink. I cannot imagine this sort of mistake occurring in Oman, where taxi drivers are all locals. Not only do they take you where you want to go, they are mines of fascinating information.
For example, having had a lovely lunch at the Chedi, rather than take me straight back to the city, the taxi driver asked if I would like to see The Wave residential development. Most interesting, I thought. There I was, being driven eastwards along the coast road and, all of a sudden, there it was, this gated complex, all very smart and private, with lovely views of the Sea of Oman. I wondered how much the houses there cost. “Oh, this is not The Wave, yet, said the driver; this is the new palace of the Emir of Qatar.” I would not have even known about this until my driver told me.
On another occasion, I decided to go on a long circular trip to Rustaq and Nakhl. I was assured by this driver that he frequently drove officials of the British embassy, so I duly asked him to take me on this trip lasting several hours. In addition to all the information about places we passed, he told me all about his family and his retired father, who had two wives, and about the level of his pension. He also went into some detail about his own preoccupations, typical of those of a 30-year-old bachelor anywhere, but his secrets remain safe with me. It was not that I asked, I just sat there listening.
On another occasion, I was taken to a hotel by a young driver in a car with all these colourful trappings you see in cars here, dashboard covers and hanging tassles and such like. They are not really my taste, but I suppose they help keep the car cool. He asked me what I thought of his English. Was it good enough to practise as an engineer, his ambition once he had finished his studies? It was indeed very good, and certainly better than my non-existent Arabic. Like so many other drivers, he gave me his mobile number so I could make use of his services again, but most times I needed a taxi spontaneously, so I didn’t call him.
It is amazing to see the country now, with its Sultan Qaboos Street, bearing in mind there was only a seven-mile stretch of tarmacked road in the Seventies.
On another occasion, when I felt I was going to be late for the opera, having seen the traffic build up from my hotel room, my taxi driver said he knew of a way around all the congestion, and duly got me there on time.
Then there are times that drivers offer to wait while you visit some museum or place of interest. One once went to pray at a nearby mosque while I admired the façades of buildings near the Al Alam Palace. Very often, though, I do not know how long I am going to be, so I tend to send them on their way.
One once took me to Muscat via the hillier Riyam Street, with the wonderful views it affords. What struck me here was its similarity to a mountain pass near me here in Switzerland, without the snow, of course.
One other thing which struck me, too, during my visit was that I did not recall seeing many people smoking during my short time in Muscat, though I did notice what I thought was an overflowing ashtray in one taxi I took, and this surprised me. In fact it was nothing to do with smoking cigarettes at all; the driver had set up a mini frankincense burner in the central console, and how lovely it smelt, too.
The only problem I had was with drivers going too fast and following too closely behind the car in front, making me press my right foot down in a vain attempt to slow down. Mind you, even on this busy city highway, I do not recall ever hearing a horn sounded in frustration or anger.
So, a big thank you, Hamoud, Mohammed, Said and Ahmed, and all the other taxi drivers of Muscat, not just for taking me where I wanted to go, but for all that interesting information you told me, too. - Exclusive to Times of Oman