Ahmed Al Mahrouqi and his Camel Riding Trip in Oman

The so-called ‘ships of the desert’ were an integral part of the history of the Arab world, without these one-humped creatures, the story of the region would have been entirely different as camels played huge roles in everything from trade and transport to food and battles. Arabian camels have been domesticated for over 3,500 years, and they enabled the people in the Middle East explore the vast lands, monopolise trade routes, and carry the Islamic religion from the Gulf to other countries. Biologically ideal for the desert climate, Arabian camels (doromodaries), can carry huge loads of 274 to 450kg for up to 50km straight, marching over thorns, leaves, and other dry vegetation on large, padded feet that allow them to walk on the difficult terrain of shifting sands. These beasts store enough water in their bodies to stay hydrated for a journey of up to 160km. Nostril flaps, long eyelashes, and a divided upper lip naturally protect them from blowing sands, and a keen sense of smell allows them to detect danger and water. Camels were so efficient at “off-roading” that the ancient Arabs actually avoided the roads built by Romans and Persians in the Pre-Islamic period. These mighty beasts were also unsung battle heroes who could cross various terrains at speeds enemies never expected, thus aiding in many ancient wartime victories. But more than vehicles or weapons, camels represented survival to the Bedouin nomadic tribes as they offered transport, a source of food, and companionship for life. Up until 70 years ago, camels were the only mode of transport for the people of Oman, but with time and an ever-modernising world, many no longer appreciate the importance of these amazingly self-sufficient creatures, which were so foundational to the Arab people’s survival centuries ago. Ahmed Al Mahrouqi, an ardent lover of camels, wondered whether it was possible for people of the 21st century to really understand how their forefathers once lived and travelled. Inspired, he developed a plan to experience their nomadic lifestyle for himself by taking a road trip by camel. Ahmed knew it would require careful preparation, first and foremost, training both himself and his camel to communicate. He spent months with camels, learning about their needs and their language. He found that there were many words and sounds that camels understand and react to, for instance, “khhrr” in camel language means “sit”. They are smart creatures, but it takes patience and time to understand them and train them to understand you. In 2013, after three months of training and familiarisation, Ahmed Al Mahrouqi set out on his first trip from Bidiya to Nakhal. On that journey, Ahmed found that he preferred travelling alone, with just his two camels and some jazz music. The camels, one male and the other female, made an energetic team. While the male camel was so reliable that he could count on it to take him on the right path, even if he dozed off, the female could be naughty and playful and needed to be attended to as she was easily distracted. Together, they seemed to keep one another in line. The long, quiet trek gave Ahmed time to think and reflect, ridding himself of the stress and mundane worries of modern life. His son Fahd would meet him every three to four hours with food and refreshments for both he and the camels and at night Fahd and Ahmed would camp like Bedouins, sometimes chatting away, other times just enjoying the sound of silence. For Ahmed’s second trip, he set the bar even higher for himself, planning a ride from the Royal Palace in Old Muscat to the palace in Salalah. By car the 1,000km trip takes about 11 hours, by flight it is just over an hour. On camel, it was expected to take nearly a month. Halfway into the trip, Fahd received a scare when he drove down to deliver food and water to his father and realised that Ahmed was nowhere to be found. A frantic search began for the lost man, who was discovered in the afternoon some 50km down the road, relaxing in the shade with his camel pair. It took Ahmed almost a month to cover the distance, but he was more than happy to have done it. When asked about the strain of the long trip he just laughed. “We have all forgotten to be patient,” he said, proudly finishing his ride at the gate of the Salalah Palace where he was met with unexpected media and public attention. Ahmed set off on his third trip earlier this year, following in his ancestor’s footsteps as he made his way from Muscat over the boarder to Abu Dhabi. It will not be his last. Through his travels, Ahmed feels that he has discovered a deeper insight into himself, his heritage, and his beloved nation. By forgoing the comforts and speed of travelling by car, his trips have offered him a kind of portal into the past where he had earned a deeper appreciation for the strength and endurance of his ancestors, and the immense value, personality, and majesty of his one-humped companions. —[email protected]