Friday 19 / April / 2024
With the Eid holidays around the corner, many of us have already begun planning our trips across Oman
The Khareef season is sure to beckon many of us south to the Dhofar Governorate; others might plan a fishing trip to Duqm, camp near the peaks of Jabal Akhdar, or take a trip into the yesteryears and visit the forts of Nizwa and Bahla.
For those looking for alternatives that are out of the ordinary, though, look north — towards Musandam.
Many of us have heard of Oman’s northern governorate, but few have actually been there. Musandam is located north of the United Arab Emirates territories of Ras Al Khaimah and Fujairah, some 500 kilometres from the Omani mainland. Oman Air has daily flights to the regional capital of Khasab, and the National Ferries Company operates fast ferries from the mainland to Khasab and the town of Dibba. However, there’s nothing quite like road tripping to Musandam.
The governorate is of extreme strategic importance to Oman and the region as a whole. It ensures Oman controls the Strait of Hormuz alongside Iran, giving the Sultanate a very important position in this part of the world. But that wasn’t the reason my best friend and I went there. We went there for a far more important reason. We wanted to see Musandam.
We set off early in the morning, rising bright and early to begin our six-hour journey to the north. Although you’re good to go in a car, a four-wheel drive is recommended: Musandam is primarily mountainous terrain, and is best negotiated in a 4x4. The thing about a road trip is that it’s not just the destination that matters, it’s also the journey getting there.
Over piping hot toast and some freshly brewed karak tea, my friend and I plotted the road we’d need to take to get north. We’d need to drive towards the Khatmat Malaha border crossing, before entering the UAE and out the other side. Preparation was key here. The day before, both of us had refilled our phones with plenty of cash so that we wouldn’t run out of credit while accessing Google Maps on the way (the bestie lives in the UAE so he’d take over navigation once we crossed the border).
However, cell phone coverage, especially in remote areas, can be spotty at times, and I had printed off physical maps of how we’d need to get to Dibba, should internet coverage fail. As we sat by the ocean, chomping down on our breakfast like it was the first meal of the day, with the cool sea breeze fanning us underneath the gently warming sun, it was the sort of moment you wanted to put into a tiny capsule and keep forever. But we had to move on – greater pleasures, after all, awaited us.
As we picked up speed on the c and roared towards Seeb, my friend was stunned to see the new airport, a new expanse of glass and steel, now become an integral part of Oman – he’d been away from the Sultanate for quite some time, and was amazed to see how much the country had grown since he’d left.
After stopping off to pick up supplies (sugarcane juice is a great refresher to beat the afternoon sun), we trundled on towards the Batinah governorate and into Sohar. What we saw on the way, though, was simply so gorgeous we had to turn back for another look: Sultan Qaboos Mosque in Sohar is so stunning, it is definitely worth a visit, or five.
The rays of the late afternoon sun bounced off the deep blue stained glass windows of the masjid, lending the marble a radiant glow that reminds you that despite all of the technological advances today, there is little that can replicate the wonders of nature. It did take us time to tear our eyes away from this architectural marvel, but we were soon reminded of our next stop – lunch.
Over the clink of cutlery (not ours, we ate with our hands), my friend and I tucked into sumptuous pizzas and took stock of what lay ahead. As we headed north once again, we made good time and passed town after quickly growing town in Oman’s northern expanse, complete with crops teeming with a fresh harvest ready to be picked, and industrial estates driving forward the economy.
Before long, we began seeing signs for the Governorate of Musandam, which pointed us towards the border crossing. Yes, Omani police officers are friendly, but the friendliest of them have to be at the Khatmat Malaha border crossing. We were ushered through quickly, with the warmest of smiles that only intensified when we told them we were headed to Musandam.
The Emirati cops, though, took a bit longer. Their immigration process took us a good hour as we queued up alongside the rest of those seeking entry into Fujairah. It helped, though, that the cop at the border was friendly, and as we entered the UAE, the maps we’d printed off held us in good stead.
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En route to Musandam, as the sun began to sink into the lofty spine of the Hajar Mountains, our Omani pride flared up once again, as we saw signs to a place we had only heard of, but never been to: Madha. Halfway between Musandam and the rest of the mainland lies this Omani exclave, a patch of Omani soil surrounded by the UAE. It was only natural here for us to contemplate the history of the Sultanate, but not for too long. When driving, it’s important, after all, to keep your eyes on the road.
As our journey progressed ever northward and we ascended into the mountain passes of the UAE, we came across the name of a village emblazoned on water bottles.Located high up in the mountains, the freshwater springs of Masafi give the famed water bottle brand its name, and it has gained some repute as an agricultural hamlet in the surrounding region.
If you are travelling through the town, do pick up a bag of fresh produce: Masafi grows delicious fruits, including oranges, lemons, bananas, and watermelons, enough to slake the hunger and thirst of even the most seasoned traveller.
Our thirst to see Omani soil and our hunger to reach Musandam, though, would soon be at the end. If arriving at the Dibba border crossing, with the mountains on one side and the sea on the other, wasn’t a clear enough indication, the sign in front of us was.
“Welcome to the Sultanate of Oman, Musandam Governorate, wilayat Dibba”, said the traditional blue and white directional sign, proudly displaying the Khanjar and crossed swords that are the national standard of the country. It was nearly 6pm as we crossed back into Omani soil, but the completion of our epic journey, and that we had made it into Musandam, filled us with a fierce pride that little else in this world can match.
And that, really, is the essence of a road trip. It wasn’t solely about the destination, it wasn’t just about the journey. It was about all that, and everything in between, and that is something that will live long in the memory.
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Where: Musandam is Oman’s northernmost and smallest governorate, with its capital, Khasab, a good 529km from the national capital of Muscat. It contains four governorates: Khasab, Dibba, Bukha and the exclave of Madha.
Getting there: Musandam can be accessed via air (Oman Air flies to Khasab every day of the week), with ferry and road access also available. A valid visa or travel documents are required for those who need them, since the land route will take you through the UAE.
Places to see: Khasab Castle is a must for those who are heading north, as is a traditional Dhow cruise. The area is well known for snorkelling and diving, and is often frequented by water sports enthusiasts. The towns of Dibba and Bukha are also well worth a visit.
Preparing for the journey: Make sure you know your route before leaving. Do have enough money in your phone to access Google Maps, and keep a physical printout with you, as an alternative. Also make sure your car is fuelled up and give it a proper service check. There will be swathes of land where there is little access to the outside world. Fuel stations will be found outside most towns, and if you are in the UAE, gas station attendants will accept both Omani rials and Arab Emirates Dirhams.
